Tuesday, 28 February 2017

Anini and Kibithu Ride

The journey was started on 10th of February 2017 at 7 o'clock in morning from Nagaon, Assam. Objectives of the journey was to see the Last Town and The Eastern most road of India, and both the places are in Arunachal Pradesh.

Anini is the last town of eastern india and Kibithu is the eastern most point of India.

The Plan

Started my solo ride from my home town Nagaon.
Starting Point-Nagaon

After riding 295 kms on the first day reached Moran, Dibrugarh. Stay in one of my best friend Pankaj Kalita's place for that night. Thank you Pankaj(Pinku) for your great hospitality.

Day 2(11/02/2017): My target was to reach Roing, Arunachal Pradesh. I started on 8 o'clock in the morning from Moran. Met a friend Jayanta Borpatra Gohain at Tinsukia town and had a cup of tea with him. He gave me some useful information about Lower Dibang Valley and Kibithu, as he visited the places before.
Meet Jayanta at Tinsukia Town

Reach Dhola ghat at about 1 PM. Newly constructed Dhola-Sadiya bridge was not opened till now so people are using old and only communication service from Dhola to Sadiya "The Ferry Service". The bridge may open by April 2017, then the communication between Tinsukia and Sadiya will be more convenient. Ferry takes 40 to 50 minutes to cross the river Brahmaputra.
At Dhola Ghat
The beautiful Dhola bridge
After crossing the river, there is almost 12 kms to reach Chapakhuwa town from the ghat. Chapakhuwa is the main town in Sadiya. Hotels and Lodges are available here for night stay.

From the ghat almost 10 km are off-road. Just before the Chapakhowa town you will find on-road. The road from ghat to main highway may change his direction every year after the flood season.

The front tube of my bike got punctured just before 8 km to Chapakhuwa town. As there is no any mechanic in that area so I had to ride my bike without air pressure. Moreover, I have had to reach Roing on that day and it was already too late. After reaching Chapakhuwa, somehow find a mechanic and change the tube.
It was 4.30 PM. I decided to stay that night in Chapakhuwa instead of Roing. But the mechanic said that Roing is only 34 kms from Chapakhuwa and its need hardly 40-45minutes and the road condition is very good. Than I changed my decision and move towards Roing,Arunachal.

Shantipur Gate is 10 kms from Chapakhuwa. Here all passes and necessary documents are check by the police as all tourist to the state Arunachal Pradesh need to issue pass. If anyone travelling without pass he/she will not allowed to go after the Shantipur gate. He/She can issue a special pass from the gate also. But my advice will be, it is better to take your pass with you in advance. You can issue ILP online also. The website is:  http://www.arunachalilp.com/ .

Reach Roing at 5.45PM. Search for hotel for night stay. There are lots of hotels in Roing in low price but their room condition, facilities and services are not so good. So I decided to stay in D.S. Hotel and Resort (Ph 8257078482/8146088898). Which is the best hotel in Roing with all facilities like hot water(which is more important as the weather is very cold in Roing), 27*7 power supply(Frequently power cut is a problem there) and water supply,clean cloths, dinner, breakfast, TV etc. So I'll recommend this hotel for a safe night stay.

In the late evening I went for a walk to the nearest market. Environment is totally different here comparing to Assam- The weather, the ladies market, the chicken market, the people etc etc. Roing is a beautiful town lays in Lower Dibang Valley. You will get plain road upto Roing. After Roing the hill start of upper Dibang Valley.

Day 3 (12th February 2017):  My target was to reach dream destination ANINI. Google maps shows 222kms to Anini from Roing and take 5 hours. As one of my friend said that there is no shop available on the road between Roing and Anini I decided to take some foods with me.
Start 7.45 o'clock in morning from Roing. After 4 km start off road and hill area. The hill road start here and it is never ending up to Anini.

After riding of 57kms from Roing reach Mayodia Pass at 11AM.
At Mayodiya
 Best time for visit Mayodia is 1 to 20 January of every year(as per local's info). If you visit in these days, you will get highest snow fall. Almost three kilometers of road cover snow. Mayodia is in only at 2655 meters of Altitude.
At Mayodiya

You should try to visit there once with your family. This is a nice family destination.
Mayodiya

Meet a group of bikers from Roing.
After a sweet conversation with them and clicking of some photograph, again start my journey towards Anini. Anini is 170 kms from Mayodia. and it was 11.30AM.

After that I found hills and hills and hills.....never ending hills and the pathetic road. The hell road. Anyone can hardly cross 20 to 25 kms in an hour.  I never expect such road condition  as the google map says 5 hours in 222kms. Anyone who have lots of patience in off road riding are advice to take this expenditure. Otherwise you will find yourself in the middle of nowhere, neither you can return from such point, nor you find anything to stay there. Your one and only destination will be Anini and there is no other choice in the middle. Anini is very challenging destination to reach one day.

But yes! the scenario is mind blowing - The blue Dibang river,the sounds of water, hills,water falls, rocks and no people to far long area. These things will force you to stop again and again to take some photographs, breath some fresh air, sit in a peace moment and enjoy your own company.

After 120 km of ride I found a Hotel (That is actually home cum hotel) where I take my lunch. It was already 2 PM. As per hotel's owner information it will take 5 hours from here.

After taking lunch, start my journey again. I was riding as fast as possible I can. But hardly can cross 20 to 30 km in an hour. Before that, there are some gates on the main road.

I was so surprise and shock to see these gates bang the road. Then from a local guy comes to know that those gates are for pretending animals pass from one village to another. There are almost 15 to 20 such gates. You hardly found some one to open the the gate. As I was riding alone is was difficult and time consuming to pass through those gates.

After few hours of riding reach a village named "Etalian"
Near the Etalian Village 
Etalian is small village. Here is a ITBP(Indo Tibetan Border Police) camp. Here is a motorcycle garage and some shops. Meet some ITBP personals there, they said Anini is 48 kms from here. and it was already more than 5 PM. I decided to move forward until the Anini.

But after 6 PM it was a fear full experience for me. Never saw such darkness ever in my life. Not even saw a ray of light to far long distance. Only the hill on one side and the Dibang river on another side. once I put off my motor cycle head light and see the darkness. You will never understand and feel such situation I faced until you find a place, which is unknown to you, where no man live, no any light, deep darkness and a loud sound of floating water from nearest river.

That is unforgettable moment and unbelievable experience of my life.

I felt that the road as endless. Took 10 to 20 minutes to cross just one km.

It was still 25 kms left to Anini and unfortunately my front brake stop working. It was 6.30 PM. I make a decision that if I get any home on road, I'll pray there for a home stay.

After riding few kilometers I get a small house, where I found a elder woman living with her husband and children. I asked her about the distance from here to Anini. She said that it is almost 24 kms and hardly take 45 minutes in bike. She might be able to understood my condition, so she said that you can stay here for the night. She added, "It will take hardly 45 minutes to reach Anini, no need to fear for anything here, this is a very peace full place. No body will harm you. People are very nice here"

Her last words really encourage me to move forward. I thank her and suddenly decided move forward. She told to meet her when I shall back to Roing.

Reach Anini at 7.30 PM. Almost all shops are closed. Went to circuit house of Anini for night stay. But unfortunately there was no any vacant room.
Circuit house of Anini 

Circuit house officials direct me to a hotel named "Paplu Hotel". Then I went to Paplu hotel and fortunately got a room there. Thank God for these amazing experiences and helps.

Day 4 (13/02/2017) :
 Wake up 7 in the morning. Take a cup of tea in Paplu hotel. Paplu is name of the owner of the hotel. He is a guy, who can help you a lot in Anini. I share my previous day experiences with him. He said the same words of the woman I met last night.
Me with Paplu da
Paplu da is running a tea hotel along with 5 extra rooms with stay facilities. 3 double rooms and 2 single rooms. Room conditions and facilities are not so good but it is the best you will get in Anini. I was surprised to know that he can speak Assamese. He is originally from Tinsukia, Assam. You can contact him on 09402649283 for advance booking of room.

My bike's front disk brake was not working. Paplu da help me to find out a mechanic.
Brake oil top up

Chain cut and Engine oil change
After solving bike problems, It was time to explore my dream place Anini. 
ANINI-the name cut on the grass of nearest hill.

Anini is the HQ of Dibang valley district. Population almost 3000. This is the last township of East India.
                                           Anini is a place where cloud kisses the land.

 First move towards the JNV(Jawahar Navodaya Vidyalaya) of Anini. JNV is situated in such a beautiful valley, this is unbelievable.
Those houses in distance is JNV, Anini

On the way to JNV,Anini

JNV




Deputy Commissioner Office-Anini

The only SBI in Anini
There is only two banks in Anini. SBI and Apex bank with ATM facility.
As per local's information, employee posted in Anini are in punishment transfer.
But Anini is a heavenly place. I want to be posted there :)
Anini has only one mobile network i.e. BSNL, with 2G internet connectivity.
People are here honest, noble and very cute.
There is no college in Anini. Student can study upto class 12th there. After then they have to move to Roing or other place.
Roing is the main dependent city of Anini. Distance between these two places is only 227 kms. But it take 12 hours in public transport. Tata sumu and Tata mobile is the only transportation Anini to Roing. As per locals, fare is Rs 850 in just 227kms. So people once go to Anini never think to come back for at least 3-6 months.
Its take 11 hours of me on bike.
Every commodities you buy here need to pay more than the MRP rate. I buy petrol there for 100 buck per litter.
Vegetables, fish, meat are carried from Roing.
Anini is struggling with lots of problems. Development of road condition can solve some problems.

Thukpa of Anini
After coming from the JNV eat this Thukpa and moved towards the village MIPI. You can visit Deepliang also. But I choose to visit Mipi. There is nothing in the village but the road you go through is mind blowing. You will find lots of scenario..,hills,rivers and some fresh air....

Anini is a heavenly place

On the way to Mipi village 

A part of Anini town-from hill top
On the way to MIPI village 


Anini was really challenging and exciting too. 


Day 5 (14/02/2017): Time to say bye to Anini. Start my journey at 6 in the morning. It was very cold and freeze morning. 
My target was to reach Tezu. But after reaching Roing finally I decided to stay at Sadiya as it was already too late for Tezu, so that night I take settler at Krishna lodge, Sadiya (Ph 09435338954)

Day 6 (15/02/2017): There is a shortcut road from Sadiya to Tezu via Sunpura Ghat. It take only 2 hours, so I get lots of time to visit the holy place "Parsuram Kund". It is only 48 km from Tezu town. 
Beautiful Parsuram Kund
Day7 (16/02/2017):  On day 7,my target was to reach Walong and visit Kibithu on the same day. Walong is 201 km from Tezu and Kibithu is 25 km from Walong. So I started at 3.30 o'clock in the morning. Early morning, empty and hilly road...that was different experience. 
This Y junction is about 25 km from Tezu. Right hand road to Parsuram kund and Wakro and the left road is to Hayuliang, Walong, Kibithu and Kaho

Missing the taste of Puri Sabji of Gopal da's hotel

Reach Hayuliang at 8AM. 
Hayuliang is village in Anjaw District.
Halt in a hotel for breakfast. The hotel owner is from Tezpur, Assam. His name is Gopal and he is a nice guy. Name of his hotel is "Lagaan Hotel". He said that he helped many tourists in issuing of permit to visit Kibithu HQ. He also provide accommodation in Hayuliang.  Anyone interested can call him for advance issue of permit and accommodation. His number is 09436162678

Reach Walong at 12 noon. Heard that there is a Inspection Bungalow in Walong. So start to search for the it for night stay. 

Fortunately there was vacant room. 
Mr. Krishna Pradhan is the only care taker here. He is an Assamese guy from Sadiya,Assam.
Anyone interested to stay in Walong can contact him for advance booking of room. His number is: 09191730380.

After getting fresh, I started my journey to Kibithu. Kibithu is only 25 kms from 
Walong. 

Take lunch at a hotel Walong
Thukpa of Walong
This Board is a destination of every biker... 






Kibithu is is the last place you can travel to East India. Kibithu is a name of a village. This village is situated in LAC(Line of Actual Control) of India and China. There only a few civilians are living now. All the area occupied by Indian army. This is a very protected area actually. You need to go through lots of checks and permissions to visit this place. Without previous pass you will not allowed to visit this place.
Foreigners are sticky not allowed to visit this area. 

I am feeling lucky and proud to visit inside of the army camp and civilian village Kibithu too. Fortunately I met a army jawan from Tezpur,Assam. He help me and share a lots about kibithu. 
War memorial at Walong
Army airfield at Walong


The Kibithu village
Inside Kibithu
A Health Sub Center inside Kibithu
School inside Kibithu
A view from Kibithu

Civilian's houses at Kibithu
Inside kibithu
On the way to kibithu


Day 8 (17/02/2017): Time to leave Walong. Target was to reach Dibrugarh via Tezu . As it was almost 400 kms I had decided to start very early in the morning. Started at 3 AM. 
Enjoying the early morning ride on the empty, curvy and hilly roads, freezing cold air, no light anywhere, no sound, no people. That was really very amazing experience again. 

Reach Hayuling at 8.30 AM and eat puri sabji at Gopal da's hotel and start my journey again.

After that I rode continuously. 
A minor accident was occur just before 50 km to Tezu. In a left hand, upper U turn a BRO(Border Road Organization) truck suddenly appeared from opposite side. I was almost at 40 km/hr, which is very much in such hilly area. Actually I lost my concentration in that time due to hours of continuous riding. 
The injuries was minor, Thank u God for save me. 

The Fall-Always use safety guards. 

had removed my gloves just before the fall. Never remove your safety guard  
Reach Dibrugarh at 7 PM. Stay at one of my elder brother cum friend Dr Bipul Ranghang's place at Assam medical college's hostel. 

Day 9 (18/02/2017): I was planning to leave Dibrugarh that day. But one of my friend Pankaj said that he is coming to hostel for meeting me. And it was his birthday also. So had change my plan and decided to stay one more day at AMC hostel. 

It was amazing to spent a night in AMC hostel. All are fun loving and good people. 

Day 10 (19/02/2017): End of the trip. Reach home safely at 9.30 PM. 

10 days on road(8 days ride and 2 days rest).
Total 2171 km.
Thank you everyone. 

9 comments:

  1. Hi...nice write up and nice trip too.. It was encouraging and informative..selute ur sprit once again..and really shocked that u have completed the 2000km plus journey in a 150 cc machine..keep riding keep blogging..all the best

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    Replies
    1. Hello nishanka!
      Thanks a lot for your inspirational comment.

      Delete
  2. nice going through your blog. Safe riding :)

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  3. Nicely written blog. Very informative and inspiring. I too love solo rides and did offroad rides to nepal twice, and many parts of Arunachal. Planning to visit Kibithu this November. As kibithu is Sensitive zone do u need to take special permission or ILP issued at Arunachal entry gate will do? Thanking you in advance.

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  4. Well...Nice guidance for next visit

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  5. Great trip man. Vibgyor sent me this link. And now both of us are planning for a trip to anini. And also thanks for sharing a lot of information. Specially the phone numbers and hotels. And a great blog as well. Hope to hear more from you in the future.

    ReplyDelete